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In a desert, on a hill, men, women in chadors, and children wander in a vast open-air  ”museum” raised in memory of the martyrs of the Iran-Iraq war. It is the  Iranian New Year, we are near the Iraqi border. A man guides me. He is tall and  charismatic and is called Nader Malek-Kandi. For almost three years, I’ve chosen to  enter deep into the heart of this world of the most extreme defenders of the Islamic  Republic of Iran (the Basij), to better understand the paradigms that drive them.  We come from the same country, and yet, everything divides us: an Iranian living in  France, an atheist and child of Communist militants during the Shah’s  reign… 


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